Notes from the field

Our work takes us all over the world. Here we share some of our more personal perspectives on some of the destinations we have visited, filed on location.

21.08.2014

Dushanbe: flagpole envy

As I boarded the plane en route from Moscow to Dushanbe, I immediately felt glad I had packed so light. The plane was full and nearly all passengers were young Tajik men, clearly going home on a break from their jobs in Russia, laden with hefty bags. The plane landed in Dushanbe at 3:20am and as soon as the wheels touched the tarmac, the sleepy tranquility vanished. Despite muted protests from air hostesses, several passengers were already on their feet and retrieving their bags from the overhead compartments. Once inside the dimly-lit terminal, excitement turned to agitation and what initially was a small orderly queue at passport control soon transformed into a disorderly crowd. I would see the same pattern time and again during my stay in Dushanbe. more >
02.05.2014

Crisis in Ukraine: The View from Baku

Whenever Azerbaijan comes up in conversation in London, I’ve found that a general discussion soon turns to the disputed territory of Nagorno-Karabakh, over which Armenia and Azerbaijan fought a bloody war in the early 1990s. Surely there would be broader topics to discuss here in Baku: what sort of impediments do foreign investors face? How has Azerbaijan used its hydrocarbon wealth? What’s the political mood like following the October 2013 presidential election? more >
27.03.2014

Doha: a sandstorm in a teacup?

Arriving in Doha as the fierce Shamal winds whipped up a fog of sand and dust across the city, the metaphor was striking. Just days earlier, while international attention was focused firmly on Russian movements in Ukraine, the Persian Gulf had quietly been rocked by its largest diplomatic storm in recent years. more >
08.11.2013

Yerevan: to Russia with love

The statue of Lenin that used to gaze over Yerevan’s imposing Republic Square (then of course Lenin Square) was pulled down in 1990. But to the chagrin of those that hoped an independent Republic of Armenia would gravitate towards Europe, Russian influence is stronger today than at any point since the collapse of the Soviet Union. more >
09.04.2013

Waiting for normal

Cairo is quiet. Not just Tahrir Square, the country's most obvious monument to revolution, which remains eerily empty during the day; but all over the city, the streets are strangely empty. more >
18.03.2013

A Myanmar souvenir

To find souvenir key-rings, calendars and T-shirts in an airport gift shop is not surprising. more >
25.11.2012

How long does it take to get to Indira Gandhi International Airport?

​The answer is of course 25 minutes. Provided you start from The Claridges hotel in Aurangzeb Road and leave at around 4:30am. Then it is pretty plain sailing. There is so little traffic around at that hour that in addition to completing the journey in record time it is also possible to take in some of the extraordinary developments that have taken place in Delhi in recent years. more >
15.08.2012

Changing times in Serbia

Driving from the airport into the city centre on an unusually cool August evening, I ask my taxi driver what the hot topics in Serbia are at the moment. Expecting a characteristically impassioned view on the new coalition government or the perennial question of Kosovo’s status, I am given a local version of James Carville’s famous adage, ‘It’s the economy, stupid’. more >
20.06.2012

Kosovo grapples with transition

On a hot evening in June, Pristina’s main promenade, Mother Teresa Boulevard, has the relaxed, animated atmosphere of a holiday hotspot. Restaurant and bar terraces lining the walkway are full of young people, tanned and dressed in colourful clothes, chatting loudly while sipping local beer or raki. The rest of the city is quiet and peaceful. more >
09.05.2012

Steppe change

There’s a sense of youthful excitement about Ulaanbaatar. Propelled by a boom in the mining sector, Mongolia’s capital is growing rapidly, noisily and, in some respects, uncontrollably. more >

‹ First  < 3 4 5 6 >